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“My sisters and I—all faithful practicing Catholics—asked the authorities the permission to design the dress and the Vatican approved it,” Micol Fontana once explained in an interview with scholar Anna Battista

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and the staid velvet and satin blue gown Barbara Bush wore for her husband’s inauguration in 1989, back when designer Arnold Scassi was the go-to society designer for an old money set that treasured looking a bit upholstered